2026年7月11日 星期六

Tripod Socket Replacement of Hasselblad SWC (Older Version)

2026/7/11

In May of this year, I acquired a Hasselblad SWC (the original version, rather than the later SWC/M). The first thing I noticed when I received the camera was that its tripod socket was only about half its original length. 

After doing some research online, I learned the reason behind this modification. On the original SWC, the clearance between the tripod socket and the camera body is too small. When a CFV digital back is installed, the battery compartment of the digital back interferes with the rear half of the socket, preventing the CFV back from being mounted on the camera.

To solve this problem, it has become a fairly common modification to cut away the rear half of the socket, creating enough clearance for the CFV digital back. On my camera, the rear portion of the socket has been removed with a very clean, precise cut, suggesting that the modification was carried out by a professional.

今年5月,我入手了一台Hasselblad SWC(舊款,新款為 SWC/M)相機,收到相機的第一時間我就發現相機的腳架快拆板只有有原來長度的1/2。上網爬文查證的結果,原來是這款SWC的腳架快拆板與機身之間的空隙太小,當安裝CFV數位機背時,機背的電池會頂到腳架快拆板後半部,導致數位機背無法安裝於SWC機身。為了解決這個問題,將腳架快拆板切除後段1/2,算是蠻常見的做法。我手上這台相機,快拆板後端切除得很乾淨,應該是專業人士所為。



Since I don't have any plans to use a CFV digital back, I decided to restore the camera to its original configuration by replacing the modified half-length tripod socket with an original Hasselblad part. After searching through several online auction sites, I finally managed to find and purchase a brand-new original tripod socket on eBay.

因為我沒有使用數位機背的機會,打算找個原廠零件把這1/2個腳架快拆板換掉。經過幾番搜尋各大拍賣網站,終於從eBay購得全新的腳架快拆板零件。




The next step was to figure out how to replace the tripod socket. During my research, I found two documents that served as useful references:

接下來,就是開始研究如何更換新的腳架快拆板,我找到兩份文件可供參考:

Repair Manual for Hasselblad 500C, 500C/M and Super Wide C
https://phsc.ca/repair/Hasselblad/hasselblad_camera_500C.pdf

Service Manual Hasselblad SWC903
https://repaircameras.org/files/hasselblad/hasselblad-903swc-service-manual.pdf

On the later SWC/M, the tripod socket is externally mounted and slightly raised above the camera body. This design makes it much easier to accommodate a digital back, as the socket can be removed or replaced with a redesigned third-party quick-release plate if necessary. The earlier SWC, however, uses a much less accessible design. To replace the tripod socket, the camera body must first be opened. Then, three major components must be removed: the film advance lever, the circular shutter-cocking mechanism, and the lens assembly. Only after these parts have been taken out can you access the three screws inside the body that secure the tripod socket.

新款SWC的腳架快裝版都是外裝,而且有增高,所在使用數位背時,比較好因應,例如直接拆除或是更換成第三方重新設計過的腳架快裝板。這款較早期的SWC則必須先打開機身,然後取下快門桿、鏡頭快門上弦環形機構、鏡頭共三項重要零件後,才能從機身內鬆開用來鎖定腳架快裝板的3顆螺絲。






After installing the new tripod socket, simply reassemble the camera by reversing the disassembly steps. Reinstall the lens assembly, the circular shutter-cocking mechanism, and the film advance lever, and the replacement is complete.

更換好新的腳架快拆板後,反向操作,機身組合鏡頭、鏡頭快門上弦環形機構、快門桿,大功告成。


2026年7月5日 星期日

The Focusing Helicoid Disassembly of the Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 25mm f4 M42 Zebra Version

2026/7/5

One of the first issues I noticed after acquiring this lens was that the focusing ring was extremely stiff. At certain points, it required considerable force just to turn it. Considering that this is a 50-year-old lens, it's no surprise—the original helicoid grease inside the focusing mechanism has most likely dried out over the decades. Instead of providing smooth lubrication, it has become a source of resistance.

Following the previous article on rear-end disassembly, this installment covers the disassembly, cleaning, and re-lubrication of the focusing helicoid. The first step is to remove the entire optical assembly. Looking from the rear of the lens, once the aperture linkage, aperture ring, and related components have been removed, the retaining ring that secures the front optical assembly can be unscrewed. The complete optical unit—including the front lens group, aperture assembly, and rear lens group—can then be lifted out from the front of the lens, leaving only the focusing helicoid behind.

這顆鏡頭入手之後,令人困擾的問題之一是對焦環很緊,有些位置甚至需要非常用力才能轉過去,畢竟是50年的老鏡頭了,鏡筒內的潤滑油應該都乾掉了,原本潤滑的功能變成阻力。

接續上篇拆開後鏡筒之後,這次就來拆開對焦筒、清潔、重新潤滑。首先,要把整個鏡組取出,從後鏡筒觀察,光圈開閉連桿、光圈環等相關的零件拆除後,再將鏡頭前面的鏡組固定環卸下,即可將整個鏡組、光圈筒和後鏡組從前方取出,剩下的就是對焦筒了。






The retaining ring that secures the front optical assembly is the first ring adjacent to the lens barrel.
緊鄰鏡筒內的第一圈壓環就是用來固定整個鏡組


The focusing helicoid consists of three main components:
(A) The outer barrel, which supports the optical assembly and the aperture housing.
(B) The focusing ring, engraved with the focusing distance scale.
(C) The depth-of-field scale ring.

On the underside of Ring C, there are two metal tabs positioned 180 degrees apart. These tabs couple Ring C to Component A, and each tab is secured by two screws. After removing the four screws and lifting off the two metal tabs, Component A can be separated from the combined B + C assembly.

對焦筒由三個零件組成 (A) 固定鏡組和光圈筒的外筒 (B) 有對焦距離刻度的對焦環 (C) 有光圈景深刻度的環。C環的底部相對180度位置有兩個與A環連動的鐵片,每個鐵片有兩個螺絲固定,將這兩個鐵片卸下,即可將這A環和B+C環分解。






Inside Ring B, you will find a set screw that secures the infinity focus position. After removing this screw, Ring B can be separated from Ring C. I first used WD-40 to dissolve and remove the hardened grease from the helicoid threads. Afterward, I cleaned away any remaining WD-40 with isopropyl alcohol. Once the threads were completely clean, I applied a thin, even layer of medium-damping helicoid grease before reassembling the three rings by reversing the disassembly steps. The focusing ring now turns exceptionally smoothly.

B環內部可以看到一顆無限遠刻度的固定螺絲,將這顆螺絲旋下,便可將B環和C環分解。我先使用WD-40清洗螺紋上已經乾掉的油脂,再用酒精將WD-40清除,最後在螺紋上一層中度組尼潤滑油,之後反向操作上述步驟便可將這三個環再組合起來,轉起來非常順手。









When threading Component A back into the combined B + C assembly, it is important to engage the helicoid at the correct starting position. After the two metal coupling tabs have been reinstalled, Component A should be able to travel all the way to the bottom of the B + C assembly, which corresponds to the infinity focus position. Finally, reinstall the optical assembly, the rear aperture control mechanism, the M42 mount, and the remaining components. With that, the restoration is complete.

當A環要重新旋入B+C環,須注意螺紋旋入的位置,當上述兩個鐵片固定後,A環需能夠到達B+C環的底部(也就是無窮遠的位置)。最後裝回鏡筒,以及後端的光圈控制機構相關零件、M42接環等,就大功告成了。

2026年6月14日 星期日

Rear Mount Disassembly of the Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 25mm f4 M42 Zebra Version

2026/6/4

Today, while cleaning the aperture blades of a Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 25mm f/4 M42 lens, I removed the front optical assembly and took out the aperture blades for cleaning. After carefully reinstalling the blades in their correct positions, I attempted to refit the aperture control cylinder, only to discover that it would not go back into place because it was being blocked by a small metal tab that actuates the aperture mechanism. It became apparent that the M42 mount at the rear of the lens had to be removed first so that this component could be detached before the aperture control cylinder could be reinstalled.

Since I was unable to find any videos or photographs online showing how to remove the M42 mount on this particular lens, I decided to document the entire disassembly process myself. I hope this record will serve as a useful reference for anyone attempting a similar repair in the future.

今天為了清理Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 25mm f4 M42 的光圈葉片,我拆了前鏡組,取出光圈葉片清理後,重新擺好葉片,再裝回葉片控制圓筒,發現裝不回去,因為有一個控制光圈葉片的金屬突起阻擋。看起來必須先拆鏡頭M42接環,才能將該零件移除才能安裝。由於網路上找不到相關的M42接環拆除影片或照片可參考,所以我就拍下整個過程,做個記錄與分享。


Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 25mm f4 M42 Zebra Version


This is the lens base after the front optical assembly and aperture blades have been removed. Once the aperture blades are correctly repositioned, the aperture-control cylinder can be reinstalled. However, at approximately the 8 o’clock position, there is a small metal protrusion that engages and rotates the aperture-control cylinder. This protrusion prevents the cylinder from being inserted back into place, so it must be removed first before reassembly can proceed.

這是前鏡組和光圈葉片取出後的底座,重新擺好光圈葉片,就可以放入葉片控制的圓筒零件,但在8點鐘位置有一個轉動葉片控制圓筒的金屬突起導致無法放入圓筒,必須先移除才行。



The rear of the lens features the common M42 screw mount, and at first glance there appear to be no visible screws for disassembly. In fact, the black base beneath the mount is an aluminum outer housing. To remove it, firmly hold the lens body and rotate the black housing counterclockwise. The housing will then unscrew and can be lifted off, revealing the internal mechanism underneath.

鏡頭底部是很常見的M42接環,外觀看不到任何可拆卸的螺絲。其實接環下方的黑色底座是一個金屬鋁外殼,先握緊鏡身,再將黑色的外殼以反時針方向旋轉,即可取下。



After removing the black outer housing, you will see a ring-shaped component. This part connects the aperture actuator pin on the M42 mount to the depth-of-field preview switch on the lens body, forming the mechanism that controls whether the aperture remains fully open or stops down. Once the single spring attached to this mechanism is carefully removed, the ring-shaped component can be lifted out, allowing access to the parts beneath it.

取下黑色外殼後,可以看到一個環形的零件,它連接了接環上的光圈頂針和鏡身的景深預觀鈕,是用來控制光圈「開/縮」的機構,將機構上唯一的彈簧拿下來後,即可移除這個零件。



After removing the ring-shaped component, you will see four screws located beneath the mount. Once these screws are removed, the M42 mount can be detached easily, providing access to the internal aperture mechanism and other components inside the lens.

取下環形零件後,就可以看到接換下方有四個螺絲,將這些螺絲旋起後,M42接環就可以順利拿下來。



Next, the metal linkage that directly controls the opening and closing of the aperture blades becomes visible. Attached to it is another spring, whose purpose is to keep the aperture blades positioned at the f-stop selected on the aperture ring. This spring provides the necessary tension to ensure that the aperture mechanism follows the setting of the aperture ring accurately and remains fixed at the chosen aperture value during operation.

接下來,真正控制光圈葉片「開/縮」的金屬連桿出現了,上面有另一只彈簧,是用來將光圈葉片固定在光圈環所選定的光圈值。



One end of the linkage extends into the lens barrel and connects directly to the aperture blade control mechanism. The other end features an L-shaped metal tab, which interfaces with the ring-shaped component removed earlier. Together, these parts form the complete aperture actuation system. Through the interaction of the M42 aperture pin and the depth-of-field preview switch, the mechanism ultimately controls the opening and closing of the aperture blades, allowing the lens to switch between full-aperture viewing and the selected working aperture.

連桿的一端是深入鏡筒內的光圈葉片控制機構,連桿另一端L形鐵片則是與先前拆下的環形零件連動,最終透過光圈頂針和景深預觀鈕完成「開/縮」光圈的動作。



By removing these two screws, the component that controls the opening and closing of the aperture blades can be detached. Once this part is out of the way, the aperture blade assembly and its control cylinder inside the lens barrel can be reinstalled without obstruction, making reassembly much easier.

拆下這兩顆螺絲,可以把控制光圈葉片「開/縮」的零件取下來,這樣鏡筒內的光圈葉片零件就可以順利安裝了。

I referred to mikeno62's video, Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 4/20 for Exakta, as a guide during the disassembly/reassembly process.

我參考了 mikeno62 的影片 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 4/20 for Exakta

https://youtu.be/XkzOlicu1bo?si=cEWQ1F8tx5XDYN_p

Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f2.8 and Sony A7C

2026/3/22

I own three Carl Zeiss Jena lenses: the Tessar 50mm f/4, Biotar 58mm f/2, and the Flektogon 35mm f/2.8 featured in this test. The Flektogon 35mm wide-angle lens was produced in several versions. The one I have is the so-called “zebra” version, recognizable by its striped focusing ring. It has a remarkably short minimum focusing distance of 18 cm, which reportedly provides a reproduction ratio approaching 1:2. A later multi-coated (MC) version was also produced, featuring a faster f/2.4 maximum aperture and a 20 cm minimum focusing distance.

The principle behind most macro lenses is to move the optical assembly farther away from the film plane. However, this increased distance reduces the amount of light reaching the film. In other words, when shooting at a 1:2 reproduction ratio, the amount of light reaching the film is only about half of what it is when focused at infinity. Although the lens is mechanically marked as f/2.8, the effective light transmission is closer to f/4. This lens incorporates a thoughtful design feature. When shooting wide open at f/2.8, the aperture scale gradually shifts from f/2.8 toward f/4 as the focusing distance becomes shorter. In the era before TTL metering, this served as a useful reminder to photographers that they needed to compensate for the light loss by slowing the shutter speed by one stop.

Mounted on a Sony A7C and shot using Auto White Balance, the Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f/2.8 produces fresh, clean colors under bright morning sunlight. It faithfully renders the pale blue sky, the yellow-brown tones of bare tree branches, the vivid green grass, and the soft pink of azaleas. I suppose that is part of the enduring charm of classic lenses.


我收集的 Carl Zeiss Jena 的鏡頭有三顆,Tessar 50/4、Biotar 58/2 和這次測試的 Flektogon 35/2.8。Flektogon 35mm 廣角鏡頭有許多版本,手上這顆的外觀是俗稱的斑馬鏡,最近對焦距離是 18cm,據說是接近 1:2 的放大率,後期還有光圈 f2.4 、最近對焦距離是 20cm 的 MC 版本。大部分微距鏡的原理,就是將鏡組遠離底片平面,但較長的距離會使得到達底片光量減少,換言之,當微距攝影達 1:2 放大率時,底片的感光量只有對焦無窮遠時的一半,雖然機械光圈標示為 f2.8,但實際的感光量為 f4。這顆鏡頭在設計上有個小巧思,一開始以光圈f2.8拍攝時,隨著對焦距離越來越近,機械光圈標示會從 f2.8 移動到 f4,這在相機沒有TTL測光的年代,算是一項對攝影者的善意提醒,需要使用慢一檔快門來補償失光量。

Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35/2.8 接上 Sony A7C,以自動白平衡拍攝,在上午的大太陽底下,色彩清新乾淨、忠實呈現出天空的淡藍、枯樹枝的焦黃、草地的鮮綠和杜鵑花的淡粉紅,我想這就是老鏡的特色吧。


Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f2.8


Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f2.8


Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f2.8


Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f2.8


Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f2.8


Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f2.8






2026年5月16日 星期六

Lens Comparison: Carl Zeiss Jena Sonar 85/2 T vs Jupiter-9 85/2 MC

2026/5/16

After taking the Soviet Jupiter-9 85mm f/2 MC (M42) out for a photo walk last time, I thought it would be interesting to compare it directly with the West German Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 85mm f/2 T (Contax RF), which led to this test record. I mounted both lenses on Sony E-mount adapters for the comparison. In terms of physical size, the Jupiter-9 is about 1–2 mm taller. When stopped down to f/4, the Jupiter-9 maintains an almost perfectly circular aperture shape, while the Zeiss-Opton produces a more polygonal, star-like diaphragm opening. As for weight and handling, the two lenses feel fairly similar in hand.

上次帶著蘇聯 Jupiter-9 85/2 MC (M42) 外拍後,想到應該要與西德 Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 85/2 T (Contax RF) 比較一下,所以就做了這次的測試記錄。我將兩顆鏡頭都裝上了Sony E轉接環,就高度而言,Jupiter-9 約高了1~2mm,縮光圈至 f4 時,Jupiter-9呈現近乎圓形,Zeiss-Opton則是多角星芒狀,重量手感則是差不多。





These test shots were taken indoors under mixed lighting conditions, combining tungsten bulb lighting with daylight coming through a window. Comparing both lenses wide open at f/2, I personally find the Jupiter-9’s background rendering more pleasing, with stronger subject separation and a greater sense of three-dimensionality. The Zeiss-Opton Sonnar, on the other hand, stands out for its superior sharpness and contrast. When stopped down to f/4, it becomes even clearer that the horizontal lines behind the text are actually composed of dotted segments. I’ve also included both full-frame images and enlarged crops for reference.

All test photos below were taken with a Sony A7C with in-body image stabilization enabled (85mm setting).

這次的測試照片是在室內燈泡光源和窗戶室外光源混和的條件下拍攝的,以光圈f2來比較,我覺得 Jupiter-9 對背景虛化的處理比較令人討喜,也較有立體感,而Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 則是勝在銳利度和反差,縮光圈到 f4 時更可以清晰地看到文字後的橫線是點狀虛線所組成。同時附上全幅和放大裁切後的相片給大家參考。

以下測試照片均以 Sony A7C + 防手震啟動(85mm) 拍攝


Jupiter-9 85/2 MC at f2, 1/250, ISO400


Jupiter-9 85/2 MC at f4, 1/60, ISO400


Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 85/2 T at f2, 1/250, ISO400


Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 85/2 T at f4, 1/60, ISO400

Center crop at 100% magnification:

擷取影像中間,100%放大後:


Jupiter-9 85/2 MC at f2, 1/250, ISO400


Jupiter-9 85/2 MC at f4, 1/60, ISO400


Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 85/2 T at f2, 1/250, ISO400


Zeiss-Opton Sonnar 85/2 T at f4, 1/60, ISO400

MC Jupiter-9 85mm f2 and Sony A7C

2026/3/22






My third collectible Soviet lens is the Jupiter-9 85mm f/2 MC, a lens with a strong lineage tracing back to the pre-war Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 85mm f/2 made for Contax RF cameras. This particular copy was manufactured in the late 1980s and features MC multi-coating. Although the exterior shows heavy signs of wear, the optics themselves are actually quite clean. When I first received the lens, the aperture scale and index mark did not line up correctly. I spent quite a bit of time disassembling the entire optical block and aperture ring, then recalibrated and reassembled it so that each aperture marking now aligns perfectly with the indicator.

The most distinctive characteristic of this lens is its rendering wide open: contrast is very low and the image appears soft and dreamy, but once stopped down, the contrast improves significantly. In the first photo, the background blur behind the uBike bicycle seems to “melt away” into the distance, while the highlights carry a slightly creamy texture with a hint of swirl, producing an exceptionally smooth bokeh.

我收藏的第三顆蘇聯鏡頭是Jupiter-9 85mm f2 MC,與戰前的CONTAC RF相機接環的Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 85mm f2有著濃濃的血緣關係。這顆鏡頭是上個世紀80年代後期製造的,有冠上MC鍍膜,雖然外觀磨損的很厲害,鏡片倒是蠻乾淨的。這顆鏡頭剛到手時,光圈環的數字和指標位置有些差異,我費了一些功夫拆下整個鏡組和光圈環,將光圈環重新鎖定在正確的位置,讓每個光圈環的數字和指標都能對得上。

這鏡頭最大的特色是在光圈全開時,反差很低、很柔和,但縮光圈後反差也就好很多。第一張照片uBike腳踏車背後,散景一路往後「化開」,高光邊緣帶一點奶油感與旋轉感,非常滑順。









2026年5月9日 星期六

Industar-61-L/Z MC 50mm f2.8 and Sony A7C

2026/3/22





My very first Soviet lens collection piece, the Industar-61 L/Z MC 50mm f/2.8, is back in action. I took it for a walk around the National Taiwan University campus to soak up some sunshine. Under bright sunlight, using the sparkling highlights filtering through the leaves as the background, this lens can produce its signature “star-shaped bokeh” effect.

Over the past few years, NTU has been undergoing constant redevelopment. Old buildings have been demolished one after another, while new buildings funded by alumni donations continue to rise. Even NTU Xiao-Fu, where I used to bring my kids on weekends, has been torn down. Over these past two decades, my photos of the NTU campus have gradually evolved from Fujifilm slide film and peel-apart film to digital photography and Instax film.

我收藏的第一顆蘇聯鏡頭 Industar-61-L/Z MC 50mm f2.8 又出動了,帶它來台灣大學校園走走,曬曬太陽。在大太陽下,以樹葉的點狀反光作為背景,就可拍出這顆鏡頭特有的「星狀散景」效果。

這幾年台大持續大興土木,老舊建築一棟一棟的拆,校友捐贈的新大樓一棟一棟的蓋,以前週末溜小孩的台大小福也拆掉了。這二十幾年來,我拍台大校景的照片也從富士正片、撕拉片,漸漸得變成數位相片、Instax底片。不變的就是手上的四十幾棵手動對焦老鏡頭,拜各種轉接環之賜,得以在數位相機和拍立得相機上復活,使得一些傳統優質老鏡的價格也水漲船高。


Industar-61-L/Z MC 50mm f2.8


Industar-61-L/Z MC 50mm f2.8


Star-shaped bokeh, Industar-61-L/Z MC 50mm f2.8


Industar-61-L/Z MC 50mm f2.8